Sihanoukville, a pothole in the Banana Pancake trail 1

Sihanoukville: It’s Friday morning in Sihanoukville, one of Cambodia’s largest cities, and the rain is bucketing down.

We’re stuck on the main road from Otres beach, home to the hotels and wooden bungalows once popular with western tourists – which one by one are being sold, torn down, and replaced by towering, Chinese-built high-rise resorts – and I’m anxiously checking my watch every few minutes.

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